Waves on Water of Variable Depth [electronic resource] / edited by D. G. Provis, R. Radok.

Summary -- Some classical water-wave problems in varying depth -- Linear transport methods for long surface waves in canals, bays and oceans -- Diffraction of gravity waves by ray methods -- Experimental studies of wave refraction -- Summary -- Survey of theoretical research into tsunamis and observations of actual tsunamis in Japan -- Numerical simulation of tsunami generation and propagation in the ocean with a real bathymetry -- Local behaviour of tsunamis -- Cylindrical solitary waves -- Summary -- Shoaling waves : Numerical solution of exact equations -- Wave-wave interactions near the shore -- Surf and run-up -- Laboratory study of a stationary oblique plunging breaker for surfboard testing -- On breaking waves -- Summary -- The dynamics of waves on currents over a weakly varying bed -- Finite-amplitude waves on non-uniform currents -- Triple roots and cusped caustics for surface gravity waves -- Summary -- Ondes internes evanescentes a l'infini dans un milieu liquide stratifie en rotation -- The interaction of surface and internal tides with boundary currents -- Along the strait in thirty six days -- Summary -- Difframon of shelf waves by an irregular coast-line -- The non-linear generation of shelf waves -- Resonance of shelf waves near islands -- Nonlinear aspects of shelf waves and mean currents -- Continental shelf waves in the presence of a sheared geostrophic current -- Generation of shelf waves on the East Australian coast by wind stress -- Long waves on the Southern Ocean.